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  • 4 weeks later...
5 minutes ago, Motor City Sonics said:

Anyone know a good and trustworthy person or company (Dearborn, Western Wayne area) to repair or replace a Water Heater

It is rare to perform a repair on a water heater. I do know that the big boxes vet their contractors when you buy them there but I would prefer to use a local plumbing company. I can't offer any suggestions for that side of the state.

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1 minute ago, Biff Mayhem said:

It is rare to perform a repair on a water heater.

Maybe not as rare as back in the day when they were all passive piloted natural draft type. For an induced draft unit the fan, air flow sensor, igniter and interlock circuit are common serviceable failure points that can be worth repairing if the tank still has service life remaining. 

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3 minutes ago, gehringer_2 said:

Maybe not as rare as back in the day when they were all passive piloted natural draft type. For an induced draft unit the fan, air flow sensor, igniter and interlock circuit are common serviceable failure points that can be worth repairing if the tank still has service life remaining. 

You might as well be speakin Russian.     I am already resigned to the fact that I will need to replace.    What do they usually cost.       Tough time for this, but then again, is there ever a GOOD time ?       Cold showers will wake you up in the morning.   

 

And thanks for the quick responses............

Edited by Motor City Sonics
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7 minutes ago, gehringer_2 said:

Maybe not as rare as back in the day when they were all passive piloted natural draft type. For an induced draft unit the fan, air flow sensor, igniter and interlock circuit are common serviceable failure points that can be worth repairing if the tank still has service life remaining. 

I have the DTE service plan which covers repairs. Any water heater over ten years old are automatically deemed to be in need of replacement.

@Motor City Sonics Plan on spending around $1500.

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13 minutes ago, Biff Mayhem said:

Any water heater over ten years old

LOL- mine is still kicking at over 30. In most areas the #1 determinant of tank life is water quality, which varies all over the map in SE MI if you are not on the Det or other large city system. Ten years is probably about right for many, but if you are serviced by a municipally softened system you should get a lot more than that. That said, how long a heater is actually likely to last is not the same question as the economic break even point for servicing it!

Comically enough, I experienced the other extreme of that decision process when the warranty holder decided to replace rather than repair my *2* year old dishwasher! I kept the dishwasher, the warranty money, and fixed it myself for <$100. 🤷‍♀️

Edited by gehringer_2
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46 minutes ago, Motor City Sonics said:

Anyone know a good and trustworthy person or company (Dearborn, Western Wayne area) to repair or replace a Water Heater

Three Stripes Heating and Cooling.  He's local. Family friend of ours.  Does all of that stuff for us.  Retired Dearborn cop.  Lives over by Shemansky Park.  So many others recommend him too so it's not just us hawking for a friend.

 

 

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I'm fixing to call him up for a new furnace.  He did our A/C a few years ago.  He comes out once a year it seems to clean up some things with it but he did say it's on it's last legs.  I figure it's better to do that before winter so that I can take advantage of any efficiency over the winter.  Probably do my water heater too since we've been here 10 years.  

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1 hour ago, Motor City Sonics said:

You might as well be speakin Russian.     I am already resigned to the fact that I will need to replace.    What do they usually cost.       Tough time for this, but then again, is there ever a GOOD time ?       Cold showers will wake you up in the morning.   

 

And thanks for the quick responses............

The cost usually depends on the warranty 10 year 20 year etc..

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On 11/2/2023 at 9:51 AM, Biff Mayhem said:

I have the DTE service plan which covers repairs. Any water heater over ten years old are automatically deemed to be in need of replacement.

@Motor City Sonics Plan on spending around $1500.

Dude, you nailed it.   Closest without goin over.   $1480

 

Figured out the previous one was 16 years old, so yeah, it was time.   

 

2019 Furnace

2022 Roof

2023 Water Heater

 

I should be good for awhile, eh? 

 

Home Owership.  

Edited by Motor City Sonics
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I've had my internet gateway box from AT&T going on four years, and I have an Asus router on top of that. (Network SSID? Asus and Eights. Natch.)

I started noticing late last week that my internet connection broke, and when I looked at the gateway, all the lights on it were blinking red. I rebooted it and it was fine, for about 15 minutes. Then it rebooted itself. Then after ten minutes it did it again.

I called AT&T and talked to AI which asked me a couple questions, did a diagnostic, said everything looked fine, and remotely rebooted my gateway yet again.

It worked fine again the following morning, when it started rebooting itself fairly frequently. After a third day of this, I thought, sht, man, the box is failing.

I called AT&T, zeroed through to a human being, and told him my box is failing, please send me another one, and no need to send a technician with it, I can connect it myself.

The guy said, well, your box is only four years old so there shouldn't be a problem, so before we send you another box, let me run some diagnostics from here. I said, OK, I'll wait.

About five minutes later he comes back on the line and says, our tests show that the CAT-5 cable you're connecting the box to the wall unit with is what's failing and causing your problem. You need to go to a Best Buy or Target and pick one up, and you might as well get a CAT-6 or CAT-7 cable since that's the new standard.

I said, wait, I think I have CAT cables in the basement. And I did: a CAT-6, as it turns out. Plugged it in and bingo! Everything has been great ever since.

Until today, when my connection through the router (separate from the gateway) started failing. First I noticed problems on my laptop; then I could not log into the Asus app through my phone. I think, damn it, man, the router is fai ...

Waaaait a-a-a MINUTE!

Ran downstairs, got another CAT-6 cable from downstairs, and came up to replace the cable connecting the router to the gateway. Went to take the cable out of the back of the gateway, and saw it actually has four separate CAT outlets, with the router plugged into one. And I thought, say, what if I just plug the existing cable into a different outlet?

That's what I did, and that problem is fixed too!

Very weird that I would have a cabling connection issue on the gateway and then the router in back-to-back weeks, after years of no issues with them at all.

And the moral of the story is: check the goddamn cables and outlets first.

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I have a junction box in the basement that was set up for a shop light, controlled by a wall switch.  The light I want to replace it with requires a plug. I need to change the box because the current one is too small.  
 

the wiring situation:  it has the line coming in and it feeds two others. So there’s 3 neutrals together, 3 hot twisted together, and the red from the wall switch. 
 

when I put them all back in the new box and put in my plug, controlled by the switch, do I just take one of the existing neutrals for my new outlet or should I add a pigtail to the outlet?  

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1 hour ago, oblong said:

when I put them all back in the new box and put in my plug, controlled by the switch, do I just take one of the existing neutrals for my new outlet or should I add a pigtail to the outlet?  

I'm not sure if this is your question but if it's "should all the neutrals stay tied together, that would be yes. So you now have a larger wire nut with the three neutrals plus your jumper to the neutral on the outlet. And for that matter the same with the grounds.

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1 hour ago, gehringer_2 said:

I'm not sure if this is your question but if it's "should all the neutrals stay tied together, that would be yes. So you now have a larger wire nut with the three neutrals plus your jumper to the neutral on the outlet. And for that matter the same with the grounds.

Thanks. Yeah that’s what I was getting at. Create a jumper on the 3 neutrals back to the new plug. It will be a GFCI since my house is old and there’s no ground wires.  Still unsure on the fixture but I want to replace the box just to give me options. I’ve been watching a lot of videos. 

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That took less than an hour. First time that’s ever happened with a home project I have never done before. 
 

one question that I didn’t need but it came up. I needed an extra neutral wire to connect the new plug to the other neutrals in the box. I got a pack of 10 ground wires with the green screws and used that to ground the outlet into the box. I wondered if I could have also used one of those as my neutral from the silver screw on the outlet to the other neutrals, as long as I labeled or marked it. Copper is copper in my mind. I didn’t do it because I remembered someone had left some extra wire that I had in my junk box of scrap. My dad’s mantra… never throw anything away and once or twice a year just go look at it all so you refresh your memory on where everything is at and what’s there. 

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1 hour ago, oblong said:

That took less than an hour. First time that’s ever happened with a home project I have never done before. 
 

one question that I didn’t need but it came up. I needed an extra neutral wire to connect the new plug to the other neutrals in the box. I got a pack of 10 ground wires with the green screws and used that to ground the outlet into the box. I wondered if I could have also used one of those as my neutral from the silver screw on the outlet to the other neutrals, as long as I labeled or marked it. Copper is copper in my mind. I didn’t do it because I remembered someone had left some extra wire that I had in my junk box of scrap. My dad’s mantra… never throw anything away and once or twice a year just go look at it all so you refresh your memory on where everything is at and what’s there. 

For much of history, grounds were allowed to be a size smaller than the neutral and line wires since there should not be any current flowing in them, so if you have old romex around you'd see "14/2 with ground" cable had a 16 ga ground wire. The electrical code has 'upgraded', so buy new romex and the ground gauge will match the conductor size. So whether your ground wires were applicable depends on whether they matched the gauge of the conductors.

Edited by gehringer_2
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Who knows things about external disk drives?

I have a couple older backup drives that are 1TB HDD and I got a new, bigger drive that's 2TB SSD. I used a backup utility to copy the contents of both HDDs to the SSD. Since the SSD is equal to the total size of both HDDs, all the contents on both should fit.

Got all of one HDD onto the new one, but shortly into the second HDD, a notice came up that the SDD was full. What? How could that happen? There's about 800 GB on one HDD and 750 GB on the other, that's less than 1.6 TB, which should fit easily onto a 2TB drive.

I did a properties check on some of the folders and I was gobsmacked: It was showing a way, way higher number of "Size on disk" versus just "Size". Example: one folder showed 550MB in Size, but 1.15 GB on Size on disk" That's more than twice higher.

None of the other HDDs I have reflect any practical difference between the two numbers, and even the SSD hard drive on my laptop is showing the same number for Size and Size on disk. Only on this new SSD external drive do I have this problem.

Does anyone recognize this and know what I can do to fix it?

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2 minutes ago, chasfh said:

Who knows things about external disk drives?

I have a couple older backup drives that are 1TB HDD and I got a new, bigger drive that's 2TB SSD. I used a backup utility to copy the contents of both HDDs to the SSD. Since the SSD is equal to the total size of both HDDs, all the contents on both should fit.

Got all of one HDD onto the new one, but shortly into the second HDD, a notice came up that the SDD was full. What? How could that happen? There's about 800 GB on one HDD and 750 GB on the other, that's less than 1.6 TB, which should fit easily onto a 2TB drive.

I did a properties check on some of the folders and I was gobsmacked: It was showing a way, way higher number of "Size on disk" versus just "Size". Example: one folder showed 550MB in Size, but 1.15 GB on Size on disk" That's more than twice higher.

None of the other HDDs I have reflect any practical difference between the two numbers, and even the SSD hard drive on my laptop is showing the same number for Size and Size on disk. Only on this new SSD external drive do I have this problem.

Does anyone recognize this and know what I can do to fix it?

Does the backup program copy by file or by sector? and if by sector, are the sector sizes on the disks the same ( 512 vs 4096)?

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